Aristocrat Pub & Restaurant - Indianapolis, IN

I am not a foodie.  I'm not some hipster douchebag with my jeans rolled up like manpri's, some clever form of facial hair combined with some thick framed, non-prescription glasses.  I don't sit around waxing philosophical about the culinary world as if I am a food expert.  Don't get me wrong, I am all about culinary innovation, but I also recognize if my dessert wasn't prepared with liquid nitrogen so I spew a fog of vapor out like a dragon with each bite, then it doesn't mean my dessert isn't cool or good.

I am about real people cooking real food and sharing their love and passion through their menu and ambiance.  I am about supporting hard working individuals that work tirelessly to provide for their families instead of corporate conglomerations that seek to profit while watering down the American culinary experience. 

Despite my aversion often times to the trendy parts of town, I found myself recently in the Broad Ripple section of Indianapolis.  Broad Ripple is often considered the youthful, trendy part of town.  The nightlife in Broad Ripple is the place to be generally.  So with some trepidation I set out to find my kind of place in what I feared would be a hipster stronghold.  On north College Avenue, I spied the Aristocrat Pub & Restaurant.  The signage proudly advertised the place had been in operation since 1933.  That sounded like my kind of place.  I was a tad concerned it may be a hipster enclave since it resides next door to a vinyl record shop, however I promised to give it a shot. 

What's that?  Vinyl records are vintage, you say?  They are and I have plenty of them from my younger years, however I know what they are and how they sounded back in the day.  Not this new trendy way of listening to albums by kids who never smelled the aroma of a freshly opened vinyl album.

Inside the pub, I was greeted by a wealth of warmly-stained woodwork.  I elected to seat myself at the bar.  The bar was well lit and bright, which helped showcase the beautiful woodwork, which includes wooden booths and an all-wood square beam ceiling right out of the 1930s period.  The bar itself was an expansive u-shaped wooden monster allowing for plenty of seating and showing off the 60 beer taps available.  I was at a seminar so I wasn't able to sample the selection, but I took a look and there is something for any beer lover.  Stouts to lagers to IPAs to cider and beyond. 

Some of the Aristocrat Beer Selection

The menu provided by my attentive bartender was ample, however not overcrowded.  It was an eclectic mix of international and American cuisine.  I decided to try the egg rolls as an appetizer.  The portion was large with three full egg rolls and fairly priced at $9.  The egg rolls at the Aristocrat also have chicken in them.  Large chunks of chicken actually and they are served with two different sauces.  The soy-ginger and sesame-garlic sauces are similarly Asian, yet distinct in texture and flavor.  I spent time sampling back and forth and I like the soy-ginger the best in the end.  It was salty with a good bite from the ginger and the sesame-garlic was good, but seemed a little too thick and sweet for me.

The veggies in the egg roll were crisp and fresh and the chicken was juicy.  Everything played well with the sauces.  My only criticism was that the middle portion of each egg roll wrapper was a little soggy.  I would have preferred the wrapper a bit crispier.  All in all, the dish was great and the meal was off to a good start.

Egg Roll Appetizer

I chose a sandwich for my entrée and decided to go with the Smokey Reubenson, a cleverly named twist on a traditional reuben.  The Smokey Reubenson consists of smoked turkey breast and swiss cheese piled between grilled slices of marble rye.  The sandwich also gets a generous slathering of a tangy slaw.  The portion was large and everything worked fairly well together.  The turkey had some crispy signs it spent some time on the flattop and the cheese was equal parts ooey and gooey.  The slaw was crisp and finely chopped, although I didn't care as much for the dressing.  It was essentially a 1000 dressing, however it was a bit bland without much bite or flavor to it.  The dressing certainly didn't ruin the sandwich, however the side of kettle chips stole the show.

A heaping mound of kettle chips came with the sandwich and they were delicious.  The chips were warm and extra crispy as a good kettle chip should be.  The chips showed evidence of a salty, garlicky, peppery adornment on them making them impossible to stop eating.  I definitely considered ordering some on the side to take home.  The bartender told me the chips were not made in the restaurant, but sourced locally from a small batch chipmaker. 

The Smokey Reubenson

All in all, I was very impressed with the lunch I had at the Aristocrat.  The sandwich was ample to eat alone and was affordable at $9.  If you crave a wide selection of domestic, craft and international beers paired with a solid menu of food, then I think you will enjoy the experience.  The staff was also knowledgeable about the menu and took great care of me, checking in often and refilling my drink regularly.  The current staff are doing a good job of maintaining the traditional appeal of a place that has been around 80 years in an area where the new seems to be preferred over the old.  The distinct lack any signs of hispters present during my lunchtime visit let me know they have been doing things right for some time.  As a matter of fact, the two gentlemen dining on my side of the bar were old enough to have dined at the bar when it first opened.  Hopefully I will be dining there in another 70 years as the tradition continues.

Exciting New Changes to the Site

For some time now, my goal has been simple.  As I travel the country seeking out local cuisine that isn't some corporatized version of food then I report about it here.  The good and the bad.  Fortunately, as I hypothesized at the onset of this project, I have found way more good than bad when it comes to local food.  So as you peruse the posts here, you find them to mostly be about my experiences at these restaurants.  A little while back I also started to throw in an occasional post about something interest from the home kitchen.  Now it's time to address a missing element to this site.

I am super excited to announce we will now be posting regular podcast episodes of a brand new podcast called The Chef's Table.  Each podcast will feature a conversation with one of America's best chefs.  We will discuss their culinary careers from the beginning, find out what fuels their passion for food and gain some insight into what their interests are outside of the kitchen.  Each chef is also asked to share a recipe which speaks to their culinary philosophy and yet is readily accessible for the home cook to prepare.  I can't reveal it yet, but I am already excited about our very first interview next week.  It is with a true culinary legend and I know you will enjoy the episode.

I think this addition brings the site full circle in many ways.  With the existing reviews on the site, I am able to share my opinions and experiences at restaurants, however I don't get to speak to the chefs.  This isn't because I don't have access to them, but instead because I intentionally don't want to speak to them during my visit.  I want to ensure I have an unbiased experience when I am dining and although I may ask a few probing questions of my server I do my best to fly under the radar.  This podcast will allow me to go to the back of the house.  Beyond the taste of the food, the service in the front or the menu pricing.  We will get to see what great chefs are doing everywhere and hopefully expose you to new chefs you didn't know you need to know.

Episode one will be available here and on iTunes.  You can also follow us on social media at:

https://www.facebook.com/thechefstable1

Twitter - @TheChefsTable2

Niemerg's Steak House - Effingham, Illinois

When you are driving from Indianapolis to St. Louis on I-70 about two hours into the journey it happens.  Your eyes glaze over and you begin to think that if you have to stare at one more farm field without seeing some sign of life, then you may lose your will to live.  Just as you begin to contemplate which bridge to drive off, it appears.  The crossroads of America pops up on the horizon.  You roll into Effingham, Illinois, and being devoid of civilization for so long you seek out a place to eat.  Somewhere to recharge your batteries and renew your belief in American society.  When you experience this, look no further than Niemerg's Steak House.

Niemerg's Steak House fully represents everything that makes the Midwest great.  A place where an army of working class heroes prepare comfort food for all walks of life from farmers to weary travelers to business persons.  The food is not only good and comforting, but it is some of the most affordable meals I have ever enjoyed.  I make the trip from Indianapolis to St. Louis and back several times a year and I never make the trip without stopping at Niemerg's.  

The decor is nothing exciting, but it fits the conservative nature of the area.  No matter what time of the day you choose to dine, you will find very limited parking in the large parking lot and all the hustle and bustle of numerous employees serving tables.  The dining area is deceptively larger than the outside would lead you to believe so there is rarely a wait.  The staff keeps the place clean and they are always professional and courteous.  

The menu is a compilation of classic comfort dishes like ribeye steak, liver and onions, pork chops, chicken fried steak, and fried chicken.  The menu also includes a few local favorites and a couple quirks.  Now based on everything I've told you thus far, I am sure you will not be surprised to hear appetizers include items like jalapeno poppers, onion rings, and mozzarella sticks.  But what if I told you this restaurant offers up the best egg rolls I've ever tasted.  The hand rolled egg rolls are overstuffed with seasoned pork, cabbage and other vegetables before being fried to crispy, golden perfection and then being offered along with homemade sweet and sour sauce.  If I find out you went to Niemerg's and didn't try the egg rolls, I will be forced to ban you from reading future posts.  You won't regret trying them.

The crisp of the cabbage and the crunch of the wrapper go so well with the tangy sauce.  Juicy, tasty deliciousness will drip down your chin as you enjoy the egg rolls.  

Hand Rolled Egg Roll Appetizer

By the time you are done with the appetizer, your mind will already be blown and you will be telling yourself there is no possible way to top the egg roll.  To that I will tell you to hold on to your hand because we have two more courses left.  For the entree, there are many great options including their crispy, crunchy fried chicken, but I tend to favor recommending a dish that is only available in central Illinois.  In this small swath of land, there is a dish that is so cheesy, so ooey, so gooey, you will be down for the count.  The kind of dish that will leave you so full and satisfied that you will be able to feel your heart beating in your chest for at least several hours.  What dish could that possibly be you ask?  None other than the Horseshoe or for the slightly less famished, the Pony.

The Horseshoe and the Pony are central Illinois staples.  Take a piece of grilled Texas toast and place whatever type of meat on top of it.  Cover the meat completely with crispy, french fries and then smother all of it in melted cheddar cheese.  If you absolutely must have something healthy as part of the dish then you can top it off with some grilled onions and chopped tomatoes.  I chose to have the hamburger pony on this particular visit.  Just as you would imagine, it is sinfully delicious.  Savory, cheesy.  It fits the definition of a hot mess to a T.

Hamburger Pony

There is only one rule at Niemerg's, which is that you must save room for dessert (Editorial Disclaimer:  Please note this is not actually a rule at Neimerg's rather a rule imposed by the author of this post.  Following the rule will lead to the utmost gastronomic satisfaction)  Desserts are made in house and are delicious.  Pies are the main route to take and there are dozens to choose from.  I personally am very fond of the coconut cream, apple pie and pecan pie, but chances are great that on any given day you will have more choices for pies than you will be able to deal with.

Niemerg's is a must stop destination.  Great food, family atmosphere and amazing prices are the story of the day.  Niemerg's is just like the family dog.  Always faithful and always there when you need them.I got two egg rolls as an appetizer for $3.49, a bowl of vegetable soup for $2.19, my hamburger pony was $3.49 and a piece of pie topped it all off at $2.49.  All in all, I left weighing at least a couple pounds more than I came in and ready to tackle the rest of the trip after a brief nap in the car.  the best part was that I got all of that food for less than $12 before tax and tip.  Where else can you get that?

Made From Scratch Vegetable Soup

Hank's Smoked Brisket - Indianapolis, IN

There once was a man from Texas.........who moved for a job in Indianapolis.........He stayed for decades and when he retired........He shared his love of BBQ brisket.

Smoked Spareribs All Sauced Up

Okay, so no one ever said I was a poet, but a limerick seems fitting when you talk about Hank's Smoked Brisket.  After growing up in Texas, Hank moved to Indianapolis over three decades ago to work as a supervisor in manufacturing.  After spending his entire career with the same company, he retired and began to think of his next adventure.  Hank had a passion for slow-smoked barbecue.  His friends and coworkers always looked forward to being invited to dine whenever he made it.  After some encouragement from said family and friends, Hank decided to share his barbecue with others.

Just across from the Crown Hill Cemetary on the northwest side of Indianapolis, you will find Hank's Smoked Brisket.  Sitting on the end of a commercial strip building on Martin Luther King Junior Drive, Hank serves up Texas-style brisket and other barbecue on a daily basis.  It was designed to be more than a part-time job originally, but Hank said he couldn't keep up with the demand on a part-time basis so he expanded to full-time.  You can sample Hank's barbecue for yourself Tuesday through Saturday from 11am to 9pm and on Sunday from noon to 5pm. 

When I said Hank cooks Texas-style barbecue, I wasn't kidding.  Several times a year, Hank drives down to Texas and loads up on mesquite wood, which he hauls back to Indy to fuel his smoker.  As a barbecue competitor myself, I am always interested in trying new places.  And so on one Tuesday recently, I found myself up in the area around lunchtime and decided to drop in.

Just stepping out of the car, I could smell the intoxicating aroma of sweet smoke in the air.  I was drawn to the building to explore what flavors would compliment the smells.  Hank was positioned behind the window, working alone as he helped each customer.  A row of four or five chairs sit in front of the glass windows across from the order window, however there are no tables.  Hank's is designed to be a carryout location.

The menu is simple, yet offers a full range of slow-smoked meats.  Chicken, ribs, pulled pork, brisket, pork loin, smoked sausage and corned beef are all offered after been smoked in mesquite on Hank's seasoned pit.  Meals can be ordered as sandwiches, as meals including sides, and by the pound as well.  For my first time at Hank's I wanted to sample several meats, and my only disappointment was that the menu is structured in an easy way to do that.  The menu would be truly complete with a sampler dinner that would combine more than one meat option to allow people to try multiple options.

While I was mulling over the many options, Hank made some small talk and offered up a sample slice of smoked corned beef.  It was reminiscent of a pastrami without the juniper and other specific spices that combine to transform corned beef into pastrami.  The meat was hot, smoky, tender and juicy.  The smoke note wasn't overpowering and the corned beef flavor was able to shine through.

Without an option to sample more than one meat in one meal, I skipped any sides and just ordered a sliced brisket sandwich and a half slab of spare ribs.  I opted to allow Hank to apply the sauce on the ribs for me and sauce on the side for the brisket before heading off to the car to dine.  The ribs set me back $10.75 for a half slab and the brisket sandwich was $9.  With a soda, it was just over $20 total.  The prices are fair individually and I think if Hank would add a combo meal to the menu so people can affordably sample several meats, it would be a welcome addition.

I first nestled in to sample the brisket sandwich, knowing it should be Hank's speciality since it's the namesake and what Texas barbecue is known for.  The brisket did not disappoint.  I was able to try a bit without sauce on it and found it to be simply spiced and thoroughly tender.  The brisket still had a slight tug to it when you went to pull it apart, showing that it was tender, but not overcooked.  The sauce complimented it well, with just enough savory complexity to make it work with the meat.

Smoked Brisket

The ribs were next on the agenda and they are three napkins to the bone kind of ribs when sauced.  They are full spares as well so there is plenty of meat to be had.  The flavor of the ribs and the sauce were very good and I enjoyed them.  The particular set of ribs I had on that were perhaps just a tad undercooked as they didn't pull cleanly from the bone, but I had no complaints with the flavor profile.

Hank's is a must try if you appreciate barbecue in Indianapolis.  It's not a big flashy place in a high rent area.  It's one man, taking his passion for barbecue and plying his trade in retirement to do something he truly loves.  His passion for serving others great food is evident from the moment you set foot in the door all the way through the last sauce, soaked napkin you wad up.  If you head there for lunch, you may want to plan a little nap time after your meal because you will be fully satisfied when you are through.  Here's to hoping Hank will continue to serve quality Texas barbecue in Indianapolis for many years to come.  I have plenty more to try on the menu on my future visits.

Hank's Smoked Brisket Menu

Cheeseburger Stromboli From the Home Kitchen

So I am more than long overdue for a post, but rest assured that I am about post a ton of entries from my travels in the not so distance past. This post comes straight from my home kitchen. With four little kids bouncing off the walls of my house, we need good options for dinner. I am sure there are plenty of versions of something similar to this out there, but we really enjoy making Cheeseburger Stromboli as a family.

   

Cheeseburger Stromboli Topped with Mustard and Ketchup

This recipe is simple to make with kids, tasty and it looks cool. For kids it is all about the look of the food lot's of the time. So while this won't be a post about a great, independently owned restaurant to check out. Instead, it will be a guide to making a quick homemade meal that tastes great. Who doesn't like a cheeseburger? If you have little ones at home, then you understand the cheeseburger landmark. The cheeseburger is the gateway food drug that weens a child off of a diet solely made up of french fries and chicken nuggets. A new protein is introduced and once a child breaks through to eating cheeseburgers, their food journey is officially launched. Much like the Pinot Noir to Merlot to Cabernet Sauvignon journey many wine drinkers follow, the chicken nugget to cheeseburger landmark is a significant one.

 The Cheeseburger Stromboli is a fun way to introduce the kids to cheeseburgers. The ingredient list is fairly simple.

1 1/2 pounds ground beef (leaner is better to keep the crust from getting soggy, but not too lean to dry the meat out)
1/2 yellow onion finely chopped
1 tsp Garlic Powder
1 pkg Phyllo Dough
1 egg beaten
Shredded cheese of your choice to top
salt and pepper to taste

 Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.

To prep the meal, pull out the frozen phyllo dough and let it thaw according to the package instructions. This will usually take 3-45 minutes. Unfold the thawed dough and roll it out thin with a lightly floured rolling pin.

Dice the yellow onion to desired size. I am a fan of onion flavor, but not so much on the texture many times and my kiddos aren't big fans either yet so I tend to dice the onion very small. While it sautes in the pan, this will keep the flavor, yet make the onion itself virtually disappear. Put the onions in a saute pan over medium heat. When the onions begin to become translucent, add in the ground beef and and garlic powder. Be careful not to overcook the beef, especially if you are using a lean mixture. It is perfectly alright to still have a little bit of pink in the meat since we will be putting it in the oven. Drain the meat and onion mixture.

Once drained, spread the onion and meat mixture evenly over the dough. Top the meat mixture with a healthy coating of your favorite shredded cheese mixture.  Roll up the dough and pinch the ends to seal the dough. Beat the egg and thin it lightly with water if desired. Brush the exterior of the dough with the egg. Place it in the oven and bake for 15 minutes or until the crust is golden brown. 

The Completed Stromboli

Slice and enjoy.

One tip I like to do is to dot the slices with ketchup and mustard. Aside from the flavor, it looks colorful and like so many other eaters, kids really eat with their eyes. Enjoy a tasty and simple dish to make with your kids.

We Interupt This Broadcast To Bring You Steak

While I stated it once before, you may have forgotten that while I promise to continue to bring you reviews of locally owned and family operated restaurants, I want to bring you home-cooked food experiences and recipes that have met with success and failure in our home kitchen.  It may not point you to a new restaurant to try, but hopefully it will give you a new dish to try or not to try at home.

And so for this installment, I want to expose you to a new show that I discovered.  It's not a new show itself, but it is new to me.  I found it just a couple of months ago when I was entertaining myself by surfing the internet.  I stumbled upon the site www.thesamlivecast.com.  Sam the Cooking Guy, as he is known, produces a livecast cooking show on his website three nights a week.  Sam is not a classically trained chef, he's not on the Food Network, and he's not always safe to watch with your children in the room.  But Sam cooks great food.  Food that is simple and delicious. He shoots the show in his home kitchen (which is gorgeous and rivals most kitchens on television cooking shows) with his wife, sons and friends all part of the cast and crew.  The show is live and what happens, happens.  In addition to cooking, Sam is an entertainer and he waxes philosophical about daily life in such a way that becomes addictive.  He seems to be equal parts Seinfeld and Lewis Black.  Every episode also contains a signature cocktail.

I watch Sam's live episodes every Monday, Wednesday and Thursday night as I am able.  They are broadcast at 6 pm pacific time and if I miss an episode I can always watch it on the site's archives.  Several meals we cook in our home on a weekly basis have been introduced to us from Sam.  Including the dish I want to share with you today.

One the Sam Livecast, he did an episode about sous vide cooking, which is the art of using hot water to cook vacuum sealed meat, poultry, fish, etc.  In his episode, he cooked a ribeye in the sous vide and then finished it in a hot cast iron skillet to give it some crust.  He also made a delicious topping for the steak that I just had to try.  Here is the end result to wet your appetite before explaining how to make this umami filled dish.

Ribeye topped with Tomato-Balsamic Sauce

My own version, which we make on a regular basis, is a ribeye steak that I cook entirely in a hot cast iron skillet.  This method produces a delicious crust and allows me to evenly cook the steak.  My cast iron skillets are easily my favorite cooking tools.  I have on occasion smoked the steaks over charcoal to tasty perfections as well.  What I want to share is the nugget of deliciousness Sam shared in this episode that deals with the sauce he applied to the steak more than the steak itself.  So cook the cut of steak using your favorite method and to your desired doneness.  If you cook the steak beyond medium then don't comment on this post.  In fact, don't ever let me know because I will cry.

With your steak cooking or grilling or smoking away, it is time to make the sauce that is the topping.  Heat up a small cast iron skillet so it is nice and hot.  Turn the heat down to medium or medium low and put a tablespoon or two of olive oil in the pan.  Toss in 2-3 cloves of fresh garlic that is finely minced and some finely chopped shallots as well if you wish.  Stir to begin cooking.  As the garlic becomes fragrant add in one cup of halved grape tomatoes.  Stir often for one to two minutes.  Deglaze the pan by adding a half cup of balsamic vinegar and begin reducing.  Reduce the balsamic by half until it begins to thicken.  Finish by tossing in a fair amount of fresh chopped basil and parsley.  Salt and pepper to taste at the end.  Pour this completed mixture over the finished steak and enjoy.

 

Grape Tomatoes warming for the sauce

This sauce is perfectly balanced as the acid in the tomatoes is complimented by the sweetness of the reduced balsamic vinegar.  As the vinegar reduces, it develops a sweet flavor and the herbs add the extra touch necessary to complete the dish.  It is simple, quick and wonderful.  Take the five minutes needed to make this sauce to top your next steak and I will guarantee it will be a regular item in your menu planning.  If you do try it and enjoy it, then drop Sam the Cooking Guy a line on Facebook or through his site and thank him for the inspiration.  I know i already have.

Goose The Market - Indianapolis, IN

Indianapolis is known for lot's of things.  Whether it is the great sports teams in the capital city, the Indy 500, or the canal downtown, Indianapolis typifies a midwestern, All-American city.  When people think of Indianapolis, the majority of folks wouldn't consider the town to be on the cutting edge of locally sourced foods and charcuterie.  Yet just east of downtown in a neighborhood in the midst of revitalization, sits an establishment trying to introduce these concepts to the Indianapolis community.

Goose the Market is a little mix of everything that involves fine food and wine.  From their large selection of deli meats, cheeses and charcuterie to their basement wine cellar allowing patrons to sample fine wines, the establishment has built a solid following over time.  Recently, the market has also added a smoker trailer to allow them to cater parties with fine smoked and grilled meats.

Not only is Goose the Market a spot to pick up fine meats, cheeses and wines, but they also offer a delicious selection of sandwiches and gelati.  After hearing so many great things about the market, I thought it was time to check it out for myself.  And so I went and found a quaint and inviting shop with locally sourced meats, cheeses, specialty drinks and gelati.  I scanned the menu and settled on the Goose Sandwich.  The Goose has thinly sliced prosciutto, fresh basil, fresh mozzarella, drizzled with extra virgin olive oil and served on fresh Italian bread.

The Goose Sandwich

The sandwich is simple and fresh.  It is the freshness that makes it delicious.  The crispy exterior of the bread yields to a soft, velvety feel from the cheese.  The fragrance of the fresh basil permeates the sandwich to awaken your senses with each bite.  The prosciutto is buttery and salty and delicious.  Each bite of this simple sandwich was exquisite except for the last bite as I knew it was all over and I wanted more.

The Goose Sandwich

Rather than sink my teeth directly into another sandwich, I thought I would sample my way around the menu a bit more.  While my sandwich was being made, a slim stick of meat caught my eye in the deli case.  I ordered up a lamb stick to sample.  The stick had a nice snap to the casing and inside was a sweet, smoky lamb stick.  The smoke flavor was not overpowering and the spices complimented the lamb well.  Once again, however I had a sinking feeling when I ran out of meat after just a few bites.

Smoked Lamb Stick

I decided to complete my meal with some gelati.  The menu selections change for the gelati from time to time, but on this particular day I found two of my favorite flavors to sample.  I got the creme brulee and pistachio.  The gelati was very dense and rich.  Both flavors were excellent and true to their advertised tastes. 

Creme Brulee and Pistachio Gelati

All in all, Goose the Market is a gem in a city that is just learning to recognize the importance of locally sourced and farm-to-table goods.  The prices may seem steep, but the old adage of you get what you pay for definitely fits.  For fresh products with quality ingredients you have to pay more.  And to support a local couple who operate a business to support so many other local farmers and vendors is worth every penny.

The Cow Palace - Shelbyville, IN

Just southeast of Indianapolis, Indiana, lies the small town of Shelbyville.  While it is the county seat for Shelby County, it is a distinctly working class town without much to offer beyond a historic movie theater and a collection of industrial employers.  This is certainly not to say there aren't great people living and working in Shelbyville because there are, but it isn't exactly a tourist destination.

Like the factories that are the lifeblood of the town, the food mirrors that utilitarian theme.  Restaurants serve simple, diner-style food among the number of familiar fast food and casual dining options in town.  Just north of the downtown square, a local eatery came up on my radar screen.  The Cow Palace is a restaurant and ice cream shop that serves up diner fare with a unique spin on some dishes.

The restaurant sits on the site of the former homesite for noted local author, Charles Major.  Major lived from 1856 to 1913 and is known for writing When Knighthood Was In Flower and The Bears of Blue River.  A plaque at the entrance to the restaurant recognizes the site in his honor.

On my visit, I scanned the menu filled with traditional diner selections like the cheeseburger, pork tenderloin sandwich, soups, salads, and other sandwiches.  One particular item caught my eye.  It seemed to advertise a most delicious combination of two classic diner dishes.  Just as the Labradoodle transfigured two distinctly different large breed dogs, the Cow Palace has transformed the sandwich by pairing a cheeseburger with a BLT club sandwich.  Snuggled between three slices of bread this sandwich boasts a cheeseburger patty, lot's of crispy, hickory-smoked bacon along with fresh lettuce and sliced tomatoes.  Mayonnaise completes the sandwich.  Naturally, I had to order this.

What arrived at my table looked exactly like a club sandwich with the exception of the sliced deli meat being substituted for the cheeseburger.  I can readily say the sandwich was all that I hoped for.  It was equal parts tasty BLT and juicy cheeseburger.  I truly enjoyed every delicious bite.  The french fries served alongside were alright, but needed a dose of salt to make them have some flavor.  I also indulged myself with a strawberry milkshake that was very thick and rich.  In traditional diner fashion I got a tall glass filled with my shake and the metal mixing container with all the extra shake mixture.  It was the perfect compliment to my meal.

If you ever find yourself in Shelbyville, Indiana, I would encourage you to drop in to the Cow Palace and sample their fare.  I can assure you that the Cheeseburger BLT will exceed your expectations.  The prices are very fair and on par with small town pricing.  My total bill for this meal was right around $10 before tip. 

Ariella Restaurant - Russellville, KY

If you aren't familiar with Russellville, Kentucky, many people from there will probably jokingly tell you that you aren't missing much.  They will only be partially joking.  This small rural community seems to be about an hour away from everywhere.  Nestled in southwestern Kentucky, Russellville is about an hour from Bowling Green and a little over an hour away from Nashville, Tennessee.  Russellville is a farming community and the town is certainly got that old-time feel.

We have family in the area and on trips we heard about a fine dining restaurant in downtown Russellville called Ariella.  On one such trip, we finally snuck away from the kiddos for a date night and so the logical choice was Ariella.  Russellville is defined by the fact that it has a Wal-Mart in town so needless to say there are not many options for upscale dining.

I think this restaurant deserves a healthy dose of back story to fully paint the picture.  The building where Ariella's operates is a former print shop.  The Barrett family ran a print shop on the square in downtown Russellville for years.  When they finally retired from the business and closed down, the building eventually came up for auction.  That's when Deborah Hirsch stepped in.  In the world of small town Kentucky, Hirsch is an outsider to some extent.  Instead of having generations upon generations of family heritage in the area, Hirsch is not from Russellville.  She's not even from Kenutcky.  When you talk to her for more than a second or two, it becomes readily apparent that the local folks in Russellville would call her a "Yankee."  Hirsch is from the northeastern United States and her accent remains distinct.  A restaurateur, Hirsch purchased a former drug store in Russellville and set about designing a restaurant when the Barrett Print Shop building came up for auction.  As we dined on our visit, I had the chance to talk to Hirsch at length and she said she was compelled to buy the building because she "couldn't bear to see another pawn shop downtown on the square."

One of my favorite things about Ariella is the atmosphere.  In a city where fine dining is defined by the barbecue restaurant or the Mexican restaurant, Ariella is a refreshing actual fine dining option.  We chose to dine in the first floor dining area, which has an upscale bar feel.  High back booths line a wall and a bar occupies the area back toward the kitchen.  In the middle of the first floor rests the printing press from the old Barrett Print Shop.  The press weighs a ton, literally and Hirsch told me that while she has received offers to have it removed for the scrap metal she felt compelled to leave it in place.  It costs her some seats and as a byproduct some revenue as a result, but Hirsch said it helps preserve the heritage.  the sweetest thing Hirsch said was that the Barretts, who are now pushing 90 years old, still come in regularly and sit side by side in a booth to eat so they can gaze at the printing press while they dine.

 The Barrett's Printing Press made in 1870 with serial number 82.  Used until 2000.

 
The cool thing about Ariella's though is that the upstairs dining room has a distinctly different feel.  Upstairs is a truly fine dining experience.  Candelabras hang from the wall accenting paintings, while intricate plaster embellishments abound.

As for the menu, it offers a little bit of everything with a distinctly Italian flair.  There are also some pub fare options, but not your simple cheeseburger and fries.  Instead, sandwiches like The BlueGrass Bourbon Burger, the Black and Bleu Burger, and the Crab Cake Burger are offered.  Hirsch herself handles the menu planning and cooking.

We were seated quickly and the restaurant was bustling although not overly busy.  Our server initially greeted us and seemed a bit distracted while she was taking our order, but she recovered nicely and dripped a sweet southern drawl with each word.  We decided to get an appetizer of bruschetta to start off our meal.  we both love bruschetta.  When it arrived my mouth was immediately watering.  Pieces of pillowy foccacia bread sat beneath a generous pile of large tomato chunks and finely diced pieces of basil and red onion.  The perfect proportion of balsamic vinegar and olive oil were drizzled on top.  The flavor was refreshing and light.  The sole downside to the dish was the bread.  Not because of the flavor, but rather because it was a softer bread it tended to get soggy under the weight of the bruschetta mixture.  It was delicious though for sure and the perfect way to start the meal.

Bruschetta

Since we were dining in Kentucky I figured it would also be good to have a bourbon drink to start off the meal.  Later when I spoke to Hirsch, she indicated that the restaurant is planning to add a number of different bourbons to the menu and becoming the southernmost point on the Bourbon Trail.  I ordered the Bluegrass Cocktail, a drink mixing Makers Mark along with several different fruit juices.  Makers Mark is my favorite bourbon by far and it was perfectly mixed with pineapple juice, cherry juice, and lemon juice.  This combination results in a great flavor.  The tartness of the juices goes well with the slow burn of bourbon on the way down.

The Bluegrass Cocktail

After my cocktail and the delicious appetizer it was time to prepare for the entree course.  My wife and I decided to share two distinctly different entrees.  She chose to order the 12 ounce herb crusted pork chops and I ordered the 14 ounce ribeye.  The steak arrived cooked to a perfect medium rare.  The cool, pink center was lined on all sides by a nicely crusted outer layer of meat.  All of the great marbling that comes in a ribeye was rendered away to give that distinct beef flavor and tender texture.  The result was a delicious steak that you could truly cut with a fork.  The mashed potatoes I got with the steak were creamy and paired with the steak, made for the perfect bite.

14 ounce Ribeye with Mashed Potatoes

My wife's pork chop was thick.  Extremely thick.  This generally leads to a very juicy pork chop, but unfortunately on this night the pork chop was just a tiny bit beyond perfect and a little bit dry instead.  The herb crusting advertised in the menu was also apparently missing.  This is not to say that the flavor was bad.  On the contrary, the pork chop was still well seasoned and very flavorful.  The garlic mashed potatoes that came along with it had the correct slightly chunky texture to make them delicious.  The chops also came with a side of spinach and corn in a velvety cream sauce.  My wife is not a fan of spinach so I gladly ate it for her and it was terrific.  The corn had a nice bite to it and the cream sauce went well with the soft spinach.

Herb Crusted Pork Chop with Garlic Mashed Potatoes and Creamed Spinach and Corn

To cap off the meal, we thought sharing a dessert was in order.   We decided to split a piece of homemade cheesecake.  The base of this cake was a thick graham cracker crust firm enough to contain the velvety smooth cheesecake above that was so rich and thick.  The cake was accented with chocolate sauce and a fresh strawberry.

 Homemade Cheesecake with Fresh Strawberry and Chocolate Sauce

It was during dessert that we asked some questions about the restaurant.  Unbeknownst to us, our server went and got the owner for us.  Hirsch sat down in our booth and entertained us for over 30 minutes with stories about the construction of the building and her restaurant philosophy.  She noted that it has been a challenge at times to get the locals in Russellville to understand the value of buying a hand crafted pizza from her when they can get a piece of cardboard with cheese and sauce from Dominos.  Hirsch shared how she worked hard to preserve the heritage of the venerable old building she bought.

The best thing that Hirsch shared that evening was her philosophy on the menu itself.  She uses fresh, local ingredients and she hydroponically grows most of the vegetables they use in her own greenhouse.  During the conversation she not only gave us several tomatoes from the greenhouse to take home, but she took extra time to explain her thoughts on local, fresh cooking.

No restaurant is perfect and nothing can be exactly right every time, but this meal was as close as I've had in some time.  More than the decor and the food, Hirsch is dedicated to retaining the heritage of Russellville.  When many people view her as an outsider, she is committed to building a better community and she should be applauded for that.  While the food was delicious, having the owner sit with a pair of strangers for a lengthy conversation and giving her own vegetables out as a testament to her commitment won us over for good.  Ariella will be a stop for us each and every time we head to Russellville.  If you are ever heading down I-65 or in Nashville, it is a diversion that you must make.  Trust me, once you make the drive you'll thank me for it.

Sandwich Machine - Indianapolis, IN

Up on the northeast side of Indianapolis on Pendleton Pike, sits a long-standing sandwich shop.  One that reportedly serves the best sandwiches in the world.  This little known fact was echoed to me by a co-worker.  Now when you potentially have the best of any single thing in the entire world right in your own town, you have to check it out.  And so it went on one weekday lunch when I found myself on Pendleton Pike with my stomach aching for lunch.  My boss, my coworker and I all clambered in to try the best sandwiches in the world.

The decor inside is typical of a dive sandwich shop that is more than 30 years old.  Paper signs advertising sandwiches, Coca Cola, and other treats are sprinkled throughout the dining room.  We ordered at the counter and then found a seat among the laminate-coated booths that looked to have been removed straight from a 1970s A&W root beer stand and then dropped right in place.

As for food, the menu seemed pretty standard.  A range of submarine sandwiches were on the menu along with hot dog creations, hamburgers, and Indiana's state fried dish, the pork tenderloin.  If the sandwiches were indeed the best in the world, then my money was on the fact that the best sandwich should be Indiana's own tenderloin.  I ordered the big tenderloin since the menu advertised it as the most popular item.  I also opted to get sour cream and chives french fries as my side.  Figuring I should try one more menu item, I ordered a coney dog.

After sitting for a few minutes, I heard my name called and went to grab my lunch.  I fully expected to round the corner and see the food tray glowing with a halo of awesomeness since this would indeed be the best sandwich in the world.  I will say that while it didn't have a glorious glow emanating from it, I remained optimistic.

At least until I tried everything.  In typical dive fashion, nearly everything on my plate was made in a fryer.  The big tenderloin was in fact big, but at the cost of the flavor and texture.  My version of the world's greatest sandwich, would have had the tenderloin being hand breaded and pounded by hand to perfection before being gently fried and seasoned with just the right amount of salt and pepper.  This tenderloin was about 1/16 of an inch thick and was folded under itself several times, but it was devoid of all flavor.  In fact, the sandwich was so thin the entire thing tasted very similar to a fried cardboard box.

The Big Tenderloin with Sour Cream and Chives French Fries

Since the sandwich was clearly not the best in the world, and likely not even the best in a one square mile radius, my hopes lied in the french fries.  They weren't as I expected since my theory was that sour cream and chives french fries would be traditional fries served with a side of sour cream and chives.  Isn't that what you would assume as well?  Well you and I would both be wrong.  Instead, the fries were frozen french fries that were supposed to be flavored with sour cream and chives.  The fries didn't taste like anything in the end, unfortunately since the fries were cooked in the same fryer as everything else under the sun.  The end result was strike two.

The last glimmer of hope lied in the coney dog.  I love chili dogs.  Hands down one of my favorite diner treats.  With anticipation I cracked open the Styrofoam container protecting its precious cargo and then my hopes of a nice finish to the meal sank.The coney sauce, while it may have been tasty, immediately resembled a deep red wallpaper paste slathered on top of the hot dog that was not at all visible under the pile of sauce.  Ever adventurous, I tried a bite anyway and found the hot dog hidden within.  It was a steamed or boiled dog that was certainly not bun length or plump.  The wallpaper paste texture was a good precursor to the flavor.  It pretty much tasted like paste you added some chili pepper and beans to.  

Needless to say, the coney dog was strike three.  I can't say this place was the purveyor of the worlds best sandwiches and I honestly struggle to see how they have survived for over three decades.  I never wish bad things on local, family-owned restaurants, but it is hard to have much positive to say.  Perhaps the one glimmer of goodness is that the prices are fair.  The big tenderloin was $4.79, the fries were $1.79 and the coney dog was $1.56.  The food wasn't inedible and if you are craving a quick, cheap meal from a fryer then you will likely enjoy this place.  If you are looking for the world's greatest sandwich though, then keep on searching.

Bon Appetit BBQ Ribs - July 2012 Grilling Issue

The other day I saw something horrific.  Something so disgusting and so vulgar that it should be removed from society.  Neither children nor adults should be subjected to such brutality.  It was so horrible in fact that it has taken me several days to come to grips with it and even begin to put it into words.  I will attempt to do so now.

On a recent trip to the grocery store for a few items, I made a stroll down the magazine aisle.  I am a magazine reader from time to time and thought I'd see if anything looked to be worthy of a read.  While I am not a regular subscriber or a monthly reader, I do grab an issue of Bon Appetit every now and again if something in it catches my eye.  While I can mind my manners and enjoy gustationally snobby meals at uber fancy restaurants with overpriced food, I am more at home with simple yet tasty creations.  I have four kids in my house for crying out loud.  So I am not in Bon Appetit's target market, but I do add new recipes to the repertoire from time to time and I like seeing how the other side thinks food should be at every meal I suppose.

However, on this particular day, I saw that the July 2012 issue of Bon Appetit was paying homage to the lower class.  To the street urchins who generally satiate themselves with fast food or ingredients in their home cooked meals that are not organic or farm-to-table.  Instead, it was the annual grilling issue and the cover shot was a plate full of sticky, sweet ribs.  As the pitmaster of a professional BBQ team, I scooped it up and headed to the checkout.  No need to pre-read anything as this issue was certainly for me.

When I got home and got things put away, I flipped straight to the ribs article.  After all it was the cover story and was billed as "Amazing Ribs!"  The subtitle below read, "Simpler and Tastier Than You've Ever Made."  So how could I go wrong?  I certainly didn't think it would change my competition recipe or somehow be a life altering experience, but as I flipped to page 50 there was a bit of anticipation.  A bit of excitement that perhaps a new tip or technique would be found.

Right then, my heart sank.  I began to read in earnest and my stomach started to turn.  I will not subject you to the article as I feel strongly that every copy of this issue should be burned to save all of humanity.  When schools talk of banning books like The Catcher In The Rye, this issue of Bon Appetit should be with it.  An ole fashioned book burning is in order.  Why?  What has me so alarmed and upset about a rib recipe?

Tell me how, Bon Appetit magazine, a trusted source for recipes, culinary news, and cutting edge cuisine that caters to the rich and famous (or at least those who view themselves as rich and famous), could possibly publish a rib recipe that calls for you to BAKE the ribs in the oven for 2-3 hours, let them cool completely and then just throw them on the grill at the last minute to char them up.  Just like any good sleazy infomercial though, the article says, "but wait, there's more."  As if they haven't done enough damage by telling people to take the lazy way out of cooking and not actually smoke the ribs, they go on to double your offer on laziness and tell you to brush on some store bought sauce as you put them on the grill to char them.  And what sauce do they believe is the perfect combination of flavor for the ribs?  Not a homemade sauce.  Not a locally sourced sauce crafted by a barbecuer.  Nope.  Their sauce choice is Kraft!  Kraft?!  Are you kidding me?

I put down the magazine then and was done.  What more is there to read?  Instead of teaching people the value of spending some time to slow smoke ribs or at least cook them completely on charcoal outside to impart some smoky flavor, they tell you to bake the ribs and to put Kraft BBQ sauce on them.  This is epicurean cuisine?  This exemplifies a truly American dish?  Sadly, I think it does exemplify American cuisine a bit since we are all getting a little older and more than a little lazy.

Do me one favor please.  At some point in your lifetime get access to a smoker or a Weber grill.  Fill a chimney with hardwood lump charcoal and light it.  Let the coals get hot and spread them evenly on the grill.  Make an actual dry rub with spices like paprika, garlic powder, chili powder, cayenne pepper and others.  Slather a little yellow mustard on the trimmed rack of ribs, spread the rub on generously and smoke those ribs.  Cook them for 4-5 hours at 225-235.  Wrap the ribs up for an hour in the middle of the cook with some honey drizzled over them and a nice handful of brown sugar spread around.  Put them back on the grill and finish them off by glazing them with a homemade sauce or a BBQ sauce made by someone other than a multi-national conglomerate.  Have a couple of libations during the process.  Tell me which ribs are better.  Ones you spent hours slow cooking to have a smoky flavor beneath the savory heat of the rub and the sticky, sweet finish of the sauce.  Or the ribs, Bon Appetit would have you bake in the damn oven and then slap some crappy sauce on.

While they don't say it in the article, I am sure Bon Appetit would be more than happy to advocate that you go ahead and lie to your dinner guests too and let them think you smoked them on the grill.  After all you did char them out on the grill at the end.  That magazine and all of their pate eating, wine tasting editors should feel shame, but they won't.  I am beneath them.  My clothes smell like smoke and I stand over a hot fire to cook something that takes patience.  I guess I am just not meant to read their articles anymore.  I'll let you decide what the magazine does for you.

The Hiatus is Over With a Slight Modification

Alright, alright, I hear you all already.  Life's been a bit crazy and thus as you all saw the posts waned.  There is no one else to blame, but I.  I thought long and hard about someone else to blame, but alas it was to no avail.  And so after much poking and prodding from the readers I am putting the band back together and will resume the posts.  I hope to continue to expose you to the good, the bad and the ugly when it comes to local, independently owned restaurants from among my travels.

There will be a twist with the resumption of posts, however in that I will also be posting about my own gestational escapades at home.  That's right.  You will be invading the privacy of my own home from time to time so that I can convey the trials and tribulations I experience trying to good quality meals for a family of six.  It's gonna be a wild ride.

Ann's Restaurant - Franklin, Indiana

Within steps of the Johnson County courthouse, on the southwest side of the downtown square in Franklin, Indiana, sits Ann's Restaurant.  The restaurant came to life in 1952 and was originally called Alta's Restaurant, after the owner Alta Spicer.  The original 13-seat diner was open 24 hours a day back then.  Ann Daugherty became partners with Alta in the 1960s and eventually took over the business after Alta retired. 

Ann's Restaurant - Franklin, IN

Ann's has a traditional decor inside and a simple diner-style menu.  To the more sophisticated diner, the decor would seem dated and boring, however for a small-town diner the decor is fitting.  The menu also looks like you would expect.  Good prices for homestyle foods and breakfast served anytime.  Pictures of local landmark buildings in Franklin adorn the walls and the din of customer conversations is occasionally broken by the sound of a ringing bell to alert the servers when an order is up.  A small, three-stool bar sits just outside the kitchen area.

Dining Room of Ann's Restaurant

Arriving for lunch, I chose not to order breakfast items, but settled on a burger and fries instead.  My meal also came with an additional side, coleslaw in my case.  I also added a cup of ham and bean soup.  The soup was designed to come out before my meal arrived, however it didn't show up until I got my entree.  Large chunks of processed ham were in the loosely, creamy broth along with an abundance of beans.  Despite containing ham, the soup seemed to be lacking a dose of salt to help bring out the flavors.  More importantly, the soup needed to be skimmed to remove the fat from the batch.  Small orange bubbles of fat were seen floating lazily in my bowl.

Ham and Bean Soup

When it came to my entree, I surveyed the menu and locked in on a meal filled with pork.  I am such a sucker for anything that used to have a snout while it was alive.  I ordered the sausageburger and fries.  The burger is a half-pound patty of ground sausage grilled on the flat top to crispy perfection.  The warm, toasted bun had 360 degrees of sausage showing like a UFO of meaty goodness.  The hand formed patty had great flavor and was easily the highlight of the meal.  I am also a fan of crispy fries and the ones with my meal were crispy, krinkle-cut fries that were well cooked.  

The coleslaw that came with my meal was cold and crisp.  It was a creamy style of coleslaw and while the crispness of the cabbage was refreshing, it was laden with mayo.  It was just sort of flat.  I added some salt and pepper in an effort to liven it up, but there was just too much mayo.

Sausageburger and Fries

The prices at Ann's are far, despite not being what I saw posted on their website before I came to dine there.  Online my burger was listed at $4.25 yet mine cost $4.79.  The fries and coleslaw set me back another $2.40.  The cup of soup was $1.75 online, yet it totaled $1.99 when I ordered it.  All told the prices were still fair, but if the rates have be raised it would be smart for the restaurant to change the website to reflect their new pricing.

Another positive note is that my server was wonderful.  She checked in often and had a pleasant demeanor.  She knew the menu well, could recommend dishes, and always made sure I had what I needed.  Overall, Ann's is a decent diner-style establishment in a small town.  Though they have hours limiting them breakfast and lunch only it is worth a stop to try the sausageburger.  I can still feel my heart beating in my chest. 

Where Was I That Day?

So I know this is a food blog and I know this may not be the forum for it, but this is my forum.  My megaphone.  My chance to speak my piece.  I can't go through this entire day without sharing some thoughts.  Not today.  Not on September 11th.

There are plenty of specials on television tonight and there have been lot's of memorial services held today.  Some channels have been playing specials all week long leading up to the tenth anniversary of that fateful day.  I don't have to watch any more footage of that day.  My memory doesn't need any jogging.

My September 11th, 2001, began as I was living in suburban Chicago.  Thousands of miles from the epicenter of activity.  At the time I was working part-time at the Clarendon Hills Fire Department and was contemplating the pursuit of a full-time career in public service.  On that day, I awoke and got in the shower to get ready for my workday.  Shortly after I got out my phone rang.  My future wife called and told me to turn on the news.  We stood there talking on the phone in our separate apartments and watching the news coverage when we both saw the second plane hit the second tower.  It took a moment for it all to compute.

The rest of my day was spent glued to the television.  We barely got any work accomplished as we learned of the crash in Pennsylvania and the crash at the Pentagon.  It all seemed surreal and as a firefighter, I couldn't help but feel a sense of helplessness.  I have always had an overwhelming desire to help others and on that day I had to just sit and watch.  The writer in me felt helpless as well.  Some of the greatest writers cut their teeth on the experience of war.  Hemingway had his war and yet I was stuck between the Iraq War that once was and the war on terror that was just about to begin.  My time in military service occurred between the two.

In the days after, we learned about those who perished and we saw the iconic images capturing the events.  My wife has no interest in re-living any of those images, but for me I see the importance in remembering.  The need to not forget the past.  Despite being thousands of miles away, it all hit home in two significant ways.

First, we quickly learned that one member of our suburban Chicago church was flying from Boston to Los Angeles on that day and he perished when the plane he was a passenger on flew into a tower.  I didn't know him very well, but as soon as I saw the picture of him I recognized him.  That suddenly brought the whole thing closer to home.  My little bubble of safety had burst.

The second thing was something that I had never experienced as an adult and something that was all too disturbing.  As the attacks were occurring, the FAA ordered all of the aircraft in the United States to land.  Never before and never since has this been done.  Living in Chicago, you become used to the constant sound and sight of planes arriving and departing from O'Hare and Midway airports.  Each night as the ban on flight was in effective, I'd walk outside and peer up at the skies.  I remember that the nights were all cool and clear in Chicago.  You could see the handful of stars visible in such an urban setting, but none of them were moving.  It was unnerving to know that the handful of terrorists who executed their plan that day had such a profound effect on our country.

Now 10 years later, I live with some guilt.  I went on to serve others as a police officer and while my time in public service has been rewarding and has enabled me to help a number of people, more than I will likely ever know, but I still feel guilty that all I could do on that day was to watch it all unfold on television.  It bothers me that I couldn't help more and I suspect that most of us all harbor some guilt that we were where we were on that day and not right there to help.  Even those who were there and who did help out had to feel helpless, too.  Helpless as they didn't know what exactly was happening or when the next attack would occur.  Helpless that they could stop physics.  That they could prevent the catastrophic collapse of those towers.

Tonight I sat watching the Sunday night football game with my family and the game opened with the playing of taps.  My daughter said, 'I heard that song this afternoon, daddy.'  I told her that they play that song when important people die.  She didn't ask another question.  The moment had passed for the six year old, but not for me.  A lot of important people died on that day.  And many more have died in the years since in Iraq and Afghanistan.  You can watch lots of specials about who was right or wrong in the war on terror, but at the end of the day I rejoice in the knowledge that there are thousands of brave men and women in this country serving in the military, the fire service, law enforcement and emergency services.  People that will run into a dangerous situation without regard to their own safety hoping to save anyone they can.  Every September 11th stings and it likely always will, but today is a day to remember those lost and to praise those who continue to serve.  Let us not forget those who died, yet remember them as the true superheroes among us.  God Bless America!

The Greek Islands Restaurant - Indianapolis, IN

When you're from Indianapolis and people come to visit, the classic thinking is that you have to take them to Shapiro's Deli.  No one will argue that the food at Shapiro's is good, but who wants to take people to be herded like cattle through a cafeteria line to buy an overpriced, overstuffed sandwich?  Not me.  When folks come to visit me there are a few places that I always try to take them and one of my favorites is one door south of Shapiro's on Meridian Street.  That place is The Greek Islands restaurant.

This is my blog and I get to decide what it's about and I decided at the start this blog would be about good (or bad if I have to point it out) food cooked at locally owned restaurants.  And that is exactly what you get at The Greek Islands.  Great food at good prices cooked and served by an army of relatives.  Brothers, sisters, cousins, aunts, uncles, you name it.  After their parents came from Greece and originally opened the restaurant, siblings Angela and George Stergiopoulos carry on the tradition.  Angela runs the back of the house and churns out spectacular authentic Greek cuisine, while George is eager to greet you at the door as he runs the front of the house.

The restaurant itself is a converted house and so there is limited seating.  If there is a Colts game in town, I would call ahead and the lunchtime crowd is a mix of all financial strata, but arrive at noon and you'll likely be waiting.  The weekends are extra fun as the restaurant brings in a belly dancer on Friday and Saturday evenings to entertain the crowd.  When the weather permits, there is also an outdoor dining area.  All of this stands as a testament to the success of the restaurant and I must remind you that if you do have to wait for a table, good things come to those who wait.

I don't go to Greek Islands for the decor or the belly dancers, but instead I go for the food.  The food is one part fresh ingredients, one part authentic recipes, and four parts of chef Angela's love and passion.  I am convinced that no one else would be able to create the culinary flavors she constructs in each heavenly bite.  All of the traditional items are on the menu from gyros to souvlaki and from pasticchio to moussaka.

Combo Platter with Pasticchio, Moussaka, Gyro, and Tiropita

One of my all-time favorites is the Kreatopita, or meat pie.  Spiced ground beef and feta cheese is wrapped snugly in a delicate blanket of phyllo dough and baked to crispy perfection.  The pie gets a light coating of tomato sauce and is served with Greek potatoes and green beans.

Kreatopita with Greek Potatoes and Green Beans

Let's talk about the potatoes for a second here.  These potatoes are huge wedges that are firm, yet still cooked through and they are cooked in a garlicky, oily concoction that is so amazing.  I could very easily eat about six potatoes worth of these on every visit.

The real treat is the Saganaki.  No, it's not a japanese drink.  It is the most delicious cheese you will ever have the pleasure of tasting.  Angela takes Graviera cheese and grills it to form a nice crust on both sides and then it is flambeed with some Ouzo tableside.  The server will pour on the alcohol and light the dish while the whole dining room yells "Opa!"  After a fresh lemon is squeezed over it, you cut off a piece and pinch it between a pillowy, soft piece of pita bread.  The cheese oozes out of the pita as you bite.  Let me tell you, this is a truly religious experience.

A good Greek meal wouldn't be complete without a little dessert and if they haven't run out by the time you sit down to eat, Greek Islands offers several delicious options.  Baklava is of course a staple.  The crispness of the phyllo dough and the crunch of the walnuts is covered in a honey syrup when baked that would make anyone feel diabetic after a piece.  If that's the price to be paid, however I am all for it.  Chef Angela also prepares Rizogalo, a rice pudding with the recipe straight from her mother, and Galactobouriko, a custard-filled phyllo dish.

Baklava

The bottom line is that Greek Islands is run by a family that cares about Indianapolis, cares about each other and is passionate about serving quality food.  I've never had bad food or even the hint of poor service there and I always waddle away stuffed and happy.  You may not think Indianapolis is known for Greek food, and perhaps you are right in the grand scheme of things, but Greek Islands has been getting it right for years now and I look forward to dining there again and again for years to come.

Brother's Barbeque and Grill - Central City, KY

Have you ever been in a love-hate relationship with a restaurant?  A restaurant that behaves like Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde?  The type of place that reminds you of Seinfeld's girlfriend.  The girlfriend that looks like a supermodel in that certain booth at Monk's Diner, yet closely resembles the bride of Frankenstein in the back of the cab on the way home.  For me that place is Brother's Barbeque and Grill in Central City, Kentucky.

I found Brother's over a year ago when I was in Central City for work over a lunch hour.  I drove by the restaurant and saw some smoke rising gently into the air and I knew I had to stop in and give it a try.  As the leader of a professional competition barbecue team, I am always up for trying a new spot.  So in we went.

The decor at Brother's is decidedly eclectic.  The place is part restaurant and part "antique" store.  Of course you have to use the term, antique loosely.  Matchbox cars and other kitschy items are all priced to sell.  Albeit, the prices are a little steep.  Maybe it's just me, but $15 a framed, unsigned photograph of Jeff Gordon's DuPont Chevrolet seems a bit steep.

As for the food, I enjoyed it on my first experience.  The ribs were full spareribs with a good smoky flavor and were served sans sauce.  That is the way barbecue meat should be served.  Let the customer decide the sauce they want and the amount of sauce that's right for them.  Brother's has two sauces to offer.  One is spicy with plenty of black pepper and one is sweet with notes of mustard and brown sugar.  The sides were traditional barbecue sides like coleslaw, baked beans, chips, potato salad, and more.  The sides weren't exceptional, but the barbecue was good.  In addition to the ribs, I also got some pulled pork, which is different down in Kentucky.  My pulled pork was chopped fine and had an mustard-like color to it, leading me to believe that it was lightly sauced before plating.  Overall, I found my first trip to Brother's to be a good one.  A subsequent work trip a month or so after the first trip was also a pleasurable experience.

Fast forward to two days ago and I had a carload full of my family barreling down the Western Kentucky Parkway.  We were headed out to a family farm for the Labor Day weekend.  It dawned on me that we wouldn't be far from Brother's on our journey and so the rest of my family reluctantly agreed to suffer through the four mile journey off of the Parkway in order to dine at Brother's.  After two successful meals, I was talking up the food to make it known that my family's suffering would be rewarded.

We arrived at Brother's just before 8 p.m. and about an hour before closing.  After seating ourselves, it seemed to all be downhill after that.  After not being greeted for some time, I poked my head around the corner and was told that someone would be with me soon.  The server seemed flustered as she was tending to an order at the drive-thru window.  Several minutes later she appeared and we attempted to order drinks and meals for the entire family.  When I travel at full capacity my family has seven members, most of which are young children.  So we order quickly in an attempt to prevent any flareups in the temperament department.  The server seemed put out that we were there in the last hour of the day.  In exchange she proceeded to let us know that they were out of sweet tea and chicken tenders, thus destroying the orders of our children.  Using some creativity we were able to place a full order.

When the food arrived, it looked less than inspired.  My ribs were full spareribs with the brisket still attached and the silver skin still on the back.  While they weren't dried out, it was apparent that they were some of the last ribs left for the day.  The potato salad was decent and had a nice mustard flavor with some large chunks of potatoes.  I also got the pulled pork.  Resembling a hockey puck in its shape, the pork tasted like a collection of sawdust mashed together to form something resembling pulled pork.  The sweet sauce was good as it had been in the past, but the hot sauce was too hot.  I enjoy heat and spice, but it was immediately evident that someone put far too much pepper in this batch.

The best part of the meal was the bun that came with each entree.  The roll was perfectly round with a nice salty crust and a sweet fluffy interior.  The problem, I suspect, is that the rolls are not made in-house, but rather sourced elsewhere and just heated.

Half Rack of Ribs and Pulled Pork Combo with Potato Salad and BBQ Chips

Given the service and the quality of the food, I spent the last hour of the drive to the family farm, apologizing to my own family for subjecting them to the detour.  A small town restaurant without a lot of customers should be excited at the opportunity to generate more sales and provide a positive dining experience.  Instead, the staff seemed more intent on getting the tables cleaned and the doors shut.  The prices aren't all that cheap either, but on previous visits I was happy to pay the $15.95 for the half rack of ribs and pulled pork combo.

If I happen to be passing through, I may give Brother's another chance, but I hope that they don't run out of the sweet tea, a southern barbecue staple.  I also hope that their service rebounds and makes it an enjoyable experience.  I always look for ways to support barbecue restaurants and locally owned establishments, but I also believe that customers deserve to be treated well and given a good experience.  Brother's didn't hit the mark recently, but hopefully it was just an odd night.