Brother's Barbeque and Grill - Central City, KY

Have you ever been in a love-hate relationship with a restaurant?  A restaurant that behaves like Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde?  The type of place that reminds you of Seinfeld's girlfriend.  The girlfriend that looks like a supermodel in that certain booth at Monk's Diner, yet closely resembles the bride of Frankenstein in the back of the cab on the way home.  For me that place is Brother's Barbeque and Grill in Central City, Kentucky.

I found Brother's over a year ago when I was in Central City for work over a lunch hour.  I drove by the restaurant and saw some smoke rising gently into the air and I knew I had to stop in and give it a try.  As the leader of a professional competition barbecue team, I am always up for trying a new spot.  So in we went.

The decor at Brother's is decidedly eclectic.  The place is part restaurant and part "antique" store.  Of course you have to use the term, antique loosely.  Matchbox cars and other kitschy items are all priced to sell.  Albeit, the prices are a little steep.  Maybe it's just me, but $15 a framed, unsigned photograph of Jeff Gordon's DuPont Chevrolet seems a bit steep.

As for the food, I enjoyed it on my first experience.  The ribs were full spareribs with a good smoky flavor and were served sans sauce.  That is the way barbecue meat should be served.  Let the customer decide the sauce they want and the amount of sauce that's right for them.  Brother's has two sauces to offer.  One is spicy with plenty of black pepper and one is sweet with notes of mustard and brown sugar.  The sides were traditional barbecue sides like coleslaw, baked beans, chips, potato salad, and more.  The sides weren't exceptional, but the barbecue was good.  In addition to the ribs, I also got some pulled pork, which is different down in Kentucky.  My pulled pork was chopped fine and had an mustard-like color to it, leading me to believe that it was lightly sauced before plating.  Overall, I found my first trip to Brother's to be a good one.  A subsequent work trip a month or so after the first trip was also a pleasurable experience.

Fast forward to two days ago and I had a carload full of my family barreling down the Western Kentucky Parkway.  We were headed out to a family farm for the Labor Day weekend.  It dawned on me that we wouldn't be far from Brother's on our journey and so the rest of my family reluctantly agreed to suffer through the four mile journey off of the Parkway in order to dine at Brother's.  After two successful meals, I was talking up the food to make it known that my family's suffering would be rewarded.

We arrived at Brother's just before 8 p.m. and about an hour before closing.  After seating ourselves, it seemed to all be downhill after that.  After not being greeted for some time, I poked my head around the corner and was told that someone would be with me soon.  The server seemed flustered as she was tending to an order at the drive-thru window.  Several minutes later she appeared and we attempted to order drinks and meals for the entire family.  When I travel at full capacity my family has seven members, most of which are young children.  So we order quickly in an attempt to prevent any flareups in the temperament department.  The server seemed put out that we were there in the last hour of the day.  In exchange she proceeded to let us know that they were out of sweet tea and chicken tenders, thus destroying the orders of our children.  Using some creativity we were able to place a full order.

When the food arrived, it looked less than inspired.  My ribs were full spareribs with the brisket still attached and the silver skin still on the back.  While they weren't dried out, it was apparent that they were some of the last ribs left for the day.  The potato salad was decent and had a nice mustard flavor with some large chunks of potatoes.  I also got the pulled pork.  Resembling a hockey puck in its shape, the pork tasted like a collection of sawdust mashed together to form something resembling pulled pork.  The sweet sauce was good as it had been in the past, but the hot sauce was too hot.  I enjoy heat and spice, but it was immediately evident that someone put far too much pepper in this batch.

The best part of the meal was the bun that came with each entree.  The roll was perfectly round with a nice salty crust and a sweet fluffy interior.  The problem, I suspect, is that the rolls are not made in-house, but rather sourced elsewhere and just heated.

Half Rack of Ribs and Pulled Pork Combo with Potato Salad and BBQ Chips

Given the service and the quality of the food, I spent the last hour of the drive to the family farm, apologizing to my own family for subjecting them to the detour.  A small town restaurant without a lot of customers should be excited at the opportunity to generate more sales and provide a positive dining experience.  Instead, the staff seemed more intent on getting the tables cleaned and the doors shut.  The prices aren't all that cheap either, but on previous visits I was happy to pay the $15.95 for the half rack of ribs and pulled pork combo.

If I happen to be passing through, I may give Brother's another chance, but I hope that they don't run out of the sweet tea, a southern barbecue staple.  I also hope that their service rebounds and makes it an enjoyable experience.  I always look for ways to support barbecue restaurants and locally owned establishments, but I also believe that customers deserve to be treated well and given a good experience.  Brother's didn't hit the mark recently, but hopefully it was just an odd night.